General information about the device of the car
Immediately, we note that we will not talk about the repair and maintenance of a car of a particular brand, whether it is a “Lada” or a “Mercedes”. For this…

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Possible defects when buying a new car
I think you will agree that it is best to buy a new car. Naturally, it will be more expensive, but you do not have to spend money on repairs.…

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Down with the service!
I do not like to touch my car, I do not like. Remember, I was talking about specialists who stand up above the hoods on the carriageway? Well, if you…

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How to buy a used car.

Well, if the car is bought from a friend. In this case, you can be sure that he is exactly in the state as described by the owner. But if the car is purchased on the market, then a thorough check is simply necessary.

Procedure one (formal). You liked the car, arranged the price. By the way, if the price is suspiciously low, then there must be reasons for this.It is most likely that the car is either stolen or restored after a serious accident (“broken”). Ask the seller for documents on the car and see if there are any erasures, corrections and blemishes covering the text. If the car is imported from abroad, check to see if there is a customs stamp in the data sheet to ban the alienation of the car for two years.

The next step is to check the body and engine numbers indicated in the data sheet with the marking on the car. It is good if you looked in advance at the cars of friends, in which place the various models are marked. One way of falsifying body numbers is to putty and paint a true one, and fake ones in a new place. Another common way is to change the outlines of similar numbers, for example: 3 to 8 or 6 to 0. Fill the figures with a putty, apply new ones and paint them neatly. It is more difficult to detect a fake, if the replacement of the body part with the marking is made. In these cases, cut out part of the sheet with numbers and weld a new, fake, and the joints are carefully treated and painted.

Sometimes the marking area is deformed, but the whole machine looks good. It may be that the marking is taken from a broken car and placed on the stolen one. Usually in such cases, the seller claims that the car was restored after a serious accident. If this is true, then the seller must have a certificate from the traffic police. However, it is better not to buy a bat car, either for technical reasons or because in future traffic police officers may suspect the origin of the car. You risk spending a lot of time proving your ownership.

Often the car is sold under a fake power of attorney. It is useful to verify the seller’s right to dispose of the car they sell.

In any case, if there is even the slightest suspicion that the machine is not all clean, give up such a purchase. If everything is in order, then proceed to check the technical condition of the car.

Acquaintance must begin with the main part of the car – the body. All other nodes are attached to the body. If it is completely rotten, then other parts of the machine do not seem to attach anything.

The car must have a body shape peculiar to this model If the roof is too convex, the wings are thickened, the backside is hanging down – it means that the car has been in a serious accident and has been poorly restored. Fresh traces of painting individual elements of the machine may indicate a recent body repair, and then you should make sure that it is made qualitatively, and not “for sale”. It happens that the car has been repainted in its entirety, and the seller assures that the car has not gone since the date of production (it was only in the garage). Evidence of a complete repainting of the car can be traces of paint on the edges of the sealing gasket glass and the discrepancy between the color shades of the inner and outer parts of the hood and trunk. However, if the car is inexpensive and repainted after a high-quality overhaul of the body, then there is nothing wrong with that.

The fact that the car has high mileage, indicate violations of the tightness of the doors, hood and trunk. Fatigue stresses accumulate in the body, it is deformed. The clearest evidence of this is the gaps in the doorways – with a large run, the body slightly sags and the gap is almost zero at the roof, and reaches a centimeter at the threshold. In addition, it is worth looking to the side on the front wing in the place where the shock absorber is attached. If the wing is slightly swollen, it means that the car was mercilessly driven over the bumps. Such deformation may make it difficult to adjust the camber and convergence of the wheels.

Next, you need to assess how much the car is struck by corrosion. Carefully inspect the wings (especially in the junction with the body). For a car with the experience of rust stains on the lower edge of the wing – something ordinary and non-lethal. Corrosion on the doors actively affects the lower part and corners. The roof is almost not subject to corrosion.

The bottom of the car suffers most from corrosion. Inspection is best done by driving the car on the overpass. If this is not possible, then do not be lazy to still look under the car, lay something on the ground, and assess the condition of the bearing elements – spars. If they are rotten, the machine will not last long. The condition of the bottom can be checked from above, for this it is necessary to raise the floor mats in the cabin and trunk, and then, armed with an awl, to determine the strength of iron. The most common corrosion foci are in the floor (under the feet of the driver and front passenger) and in the trunk (the area above the muffler, the floor of the spare wheel niche). It is worth paying attention to the rapids, they begin to rot one of the first.

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